Grooming Tips, Brush Care & Safety Razor Technique

1. How to get a close shave on the upper lip and along the sides of the mouth.

The upper lip is a sensitive area; so do not shave it against the grain. Instead, shave with the grain and across the grain for a close shave without irritation. Using a pre-shave oil can help facilitate a smooth trim. In regards to the side of the lips, try using your thumb and index fingers to pinch your upper and lower lips together making the corners stand out. This will make it a little easier to shave that area.

2. Keeping a good complexion is not a troublesome endeavor.

You’re not getting any younger. But you can make the world believe you are by taking good care of your skin. In order to keep your complexion looking fresh, use an exfoliating cleanser and moisturizer 2-3 times a week. Also, use a hydrating post-shave gel to complete every shave.

3. With a coarse beard, sometimes a traditional razor doesn’t provide the best shave.

It’s possible that a traditional three or five blade razor is the cause of breakouts. The reason: too much blade. Irritated, bumpy skin can be avoided by using a high-quality double-edge razor.

4. Getting your hair looking and feeling sharp.

As a general rule, longer hair needs more attention than shorter hair. Hair that is longer than 5 inches should be washed and conditioned 5-7 times a week. The oils your hair naturally produces are important and too much washing will strip them.

For a strong hold use our pomade right out of the jar. Diluting the pomade with water will lighten the firmness of the hold.

5. How to achieve a close shave without irritating the skin.

Begin the shaving process by using pre-shave oil. It helps with the friction of the blade and prevents ingrown hairs and bumps. Secondly, always avoid shaving against the grain. Lastly, don’t place too much pressure on the razor. A quality razor is sharp enough and should not require an inordinate amount of pressure.

6. The rule on manicures and pedicures.

You know they are important. But how important? Men should receive manicures twice a month and a pedicure every 3-4 weeks. But hold off on the colored nail polish.

7. All shaving cream is not the same. Really.

It’s important to have a shaving cream that is natural and glycerin based. The glycerin traps moisture so while you are shaving away layers of your skin, you are also hydrating it. Shaving aerosols and alcohol based creams cannot provide such benefits.

8. How to properly care for your badger hair brush.

With the proper attention, a badger hair brush should provide you with a quality lather for several years.

  1. Lather lightly without pressure.
  2. After use, rinse thoroughly and remove all excess moisture. Never boil the brush.
  3. Leave in open air to dry out. Never enclose a damp brush.
  4. Periodically soak and rinse out to loosen build-up.

 ST. JAMES OF LONDON DOUBLE-EDGE SAFETY RAZOR SHAVING 

The St James of London is a three-piece European crafted and perfectly weighted benchmade three-piece safety razor.

The top and bottom pieces of razor head come off the body.

The head gets unscrewed from the body, then the base is separated, a blade inserted, aligned, closed back up and re-screwed to the body. It’s durable and easy to keep clean.

The St James of London Cheeky safety razor is what is known as a closed comb, fixed head razor, meaning that it has a safety bar beneath the blade, rather than teeth. This gives you more protection from nicks, cuts, and razor burn and fixed head does not allow for any blade adjustment - hence more consistent & safer shaves.

Our double edge safety razors have a longer 4-inch handle that is anatomically shaped to feel snug in your hand and look great on the shelf. The razor is perfectly weighted to reduce the force needed for a close, comfortable shave.

ST JAMES OF LONDON CARTRIDGE & SAFETY RAZORS,HAND-TIED BADGER SHAVING BRUSHES, STANDS & BOWLS

BEGINNERS GUIDE TO SHAVING WITH A DOUBLE EDGE SAFETY RAZOR

Shaving with a safety razor is an incredible feeling. Whether you're making a change from cartridge razors or electric razors, this will help you get started.

WHY SWITCH TO A SAFETY RAZOR

  • A closer shave
  • Gentler on sensitive skin
  • Best for shaping facial hair - goatee, beard-lines
  • Inexpensive cost for blades

USING YOUR SAFETY RAZOR

Wet shaving with a double-edge safety razor is easy to master within a short amount of time.

1. PRE-SHAVE PREPARATION

Like with a disposable cartridge razor, you need to hydrate your hair and skin to soften your stubble and reduce the risk of skin irritation, and razor burn.  

Wet your face. A shower gets the job done, but if you want to take things to the next level, grab a soft, wet hot towel and leave it on your face for a few minutes. You can also use a pre-shave oil to enhance the razor blade glide.

2. LATHERING 101

Creating lather with shaving creams using a shaving brush allows for your facial hair stand up so the razor can do its work - also exfoliates your skin in the process too. There are a few different ways to lather up:

Directly to your face with your hands. You will  be able to shave, but this method is less effective and will not allow for an even shave cream application.

Directly apply to your face using a shaving brush. This is a common method where you put a small dab of shaving cream on the brush then then apply it directly to your face.  Pre-soak your brush so that it's saturated but not dripping wet.  For highly glycerin dense creams like ours, a shaving brush is key.

Use a shaving brush and swirl a few times right in the shave cream bowl. If you prefer to use a separate bowl to create a lather, drop a nickel-size bit of shaving cream into a bowl with a few drops of water.

Finally, swirl it around in the cream until you have a nice, buttery thick lather. You can add water and cream to adjust the consistency.

This method gives you the creamiest lather, the most lift, and exfoliates the skin (shaving brushes remove dead skin cells that can cause ingrown hair).  

When you're finished, clean and dry your brush properly to keep its quality.

3. SHAVING STROKE TECHNIQUE

The idea behind the safety razor technique is to shave with the grain first and let gravity do the work. Less drag equals less irritation and lets the razor glide but still offers a close shave. Here is a shaving technique to get you started:

  • Hold the razor at about a 45-degree angle to your face and use short gentle strokes with as little pressure as possible for the first pass.
  • Going with the grain, glide down without applying pressure in the same direction
  • Turn the razor over and overlap the finished area using the other side of the double edge razor blade
  • Repeat going across the grain
  • Optional: repeat going against the grain

Once you feel comfortable with the razor, you'll be able to tailor a more personalized technique.

4. POST-SHAVE CARE

When you’re done, splash some cold water on your face to wash away any remaining lather and close up your pores. Next, apply an aftershave gel or lotion which will cool your skin and moisturize.

CARING FOR YOUR SAFETY RAZOR

Maintaining a sharp blade and a properly functioning double edge razor takes a few simple steps at the end of your ritual:

  • Rinse with warm water to clean the blade
  • Pat it down with a towel to dry
  • Replacing your razor blade every 2-3 weeks (longer if not shaving every day) will keep your shaving routine smooth and comfortable